In the second part of the article series on the shirt of Sebastian Dollinger from Eton appear skjortkonstruktionen. Common myths will be crushed to find new Central skjortdetaljer a well-sewn shirt. And if the fabrics are a strong interest is the shirt design Sebastian’s great passion.
That Sebastian has ideas and strong opinions about the shirt design is clear. There is probably not a single seam Sebastian have never thought about. But he is also careful to point out that skjortkonstruktion is not a complete science but there are many interpretations and ideas on quality.
-Our goal at Eton is perfection. It is clear that there is a charm in Neapolitan producers with many hand sewn details. We prefer, however, that the buttons be sewn out of high-tech machines in front of a 70-year-old aunt. Therefore we will not produce shirts with that feeling. Our approach to craft is rather precise and modern technology.
Eton sewing their shirts in their own factory in Estonia. The factory is about than in much larger scale an almost identical copy of the sample factory in Moscow outside Borås. This makes the shirts produced in Warrington very easily can be put into production for larger volumes. Eve stance that distinctive skjortillverkare makes them relatively unique amongst a plethora of brands with huge collections. Sebastian believes, however, that the trend is moving towards product focus in front of the brand.
-It was very clear during the fashion tradeshow Pitti Uomo that took place in Florence for just over a week ago how all specialists generally went very well, while many of the major lifestyle brands had it much tougher. It is no coincidence that brands like Mackintosh who is totally awesome at what they do is celebrated. I am convinced that we will see more brands with a stronger focus on individual products.
When it comes to shirts, what are the details that characterize a well-sewn shirt? To make it all the more instructive, we asked Sebastian list some of the most important parts. Below is a selection of 15 details, with Sebastian’s comments.
The right type of stitching is extremely important both for the life of the shirt and the feeling. The balance between material, nålval and stynglängd is an art. 7-9 stitches per centimetre is a good guideline for a well-sewn shirt. Check carefully for hidden sömm. The inside of a shirt can say a lot about the quality which many manufacturers cheat and use a lower standard than other sewing for the shirt.
A detail that is often overlooked is the shirt inserts, which gives the collar and cuff Charter and form. Choosing the right stabilizer requires extensive knowledge. That the inserts are woven and not glued and finely fused with the right technology is incredibly important to the collar must not bubble. The same principle applies to the cuff.
Button’s loans is also an important detail that is often overlooked. It is important that it does not become too stiff. We have developed a spacer designed for the fabrics that we use, which gives the correct stability. We have 2 different types of inserts for placket — one that gives a more classical and strict impression and one that provides a more casual look. On the more casual the construction loan is fixed in only button the button holes,
Side seams that attaches to the shirt front and back cover are often central to the shirt. Better manufacturers use single needle stitching, so called bound edging. This means that the fabric be hemmed for outwardly only give a single stitch, which gives a neater look. We use a variation on this called Egyptian seam, which we believe is even better.
Butterfly gusset is a largely unnecessary detail. The truth is that it is often used to hide the transition between the front and back of the shirt, which is a pretty difficult detail to get to. Many people also use it as a pure design detail.
To a shirt with generous fabric lengths would be a sign of quality is idiotic. It’s just that the manufacturers cannot obtain a proper fit that does not require tygöverflöd to sit comfortably.I mean if this were to be true, we would be just as happy to produce tents. It’s a huge process behind producing a fit, which can take up to a year.
Uttagabara kragben is also a typical misconception that it would be a mark of quality. There is no high additional cost to sew them open. That’s if you want to be able to switch between a rigid and softer collars, but then I think you should choose one that has no kragben instead as button-down. Otherwise, it’s just hard when kragbenen all the time lost in the washing machine.
Kragsnibben is a fun detail. The collar is sewn out-and-up and when the vrängs is not quite easy to get into a sharp kragsnibb but many manufacturers get instead a slightly obtuse form. Better shirts have a well-formed, pointed kragsnibb.
The last buttonhole is sewn horizontally fills a clear purpose. It creates more mobility and more comfortable fit .Hips and legs moving very much sideways. Because the button is supposed to be inside the pants, it’s important that the button is slightly more responsive.
The second top button’s location is central to look good with the top button undone. An interesting detail is the top button which better manufacturers allows tilting slightly so that the collar is left without extending themselves. It is, however, very marginally. For the may of course also not risking to be displaced vertically. Only one millimetre slant is preferable.
More information about Eton shirts, please visit Mustbuyshirts.
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